Panamania

back home

2010-11-15T18:57:00.001-08:00

Well, I am writing this blog post from Rockville. I finished up my service on November 1st. I left the next day for Costa Rica, spent a few days there, and then arrived stateside on the 5th. I'm very glad I made the decision to serve my country (and the country of Panama) with the Peace Corps. I got to learn a lot about reality, myself, and some new skills as well. I know sometimes people complained that I didn't update this blog enough, but most of what I was living cannot be summed up in words for a public internet space. Thanks to those of you who actually followed this, and now I look forward to catching up in person!

Despedidas

2010-09-26T16:59:00.000-07:00

As you know, I have now officially left my community. But, they've had some good-bye parties for me. Some before I left, and a few where they invited me back to enjoy the food and gifts.

In my schools, they had despedidas, and gave me that personalized teacher polo shirt (very official)

One community put on an event for me in the library, giving me that amazing personalized shirt (if you can't read, it says "Abby Rovira (heart) you"

My environmental group put on a farewell party, even gifted me an engraved silver platter.

Then they invited me back to main school I worked at. First, there was a little presentation "acto"

People got to say some words

There was some delicious food (that's my follow-up volunteer with me)

Some dancing

And some gifts (my personal favorites...a garfield backpack and an orange tube top)

Overall, a great time of good feelings and warm memories. Now, before I leave I have to go say the real goodbyes....

a little something I wrote

2010-08-12T16:07:00.000-07:00

When I saw that the theme for the next issue would be Gender Issues, I thought many of you would write about helping empower girls in your community, or forcing men to wash their own clothes, or educating about domestic violence or sex ed. But, I have to say....my Peace Corps experience has empowered and educated me. My community had to do a GAD project on me, empowering me from the mousy gringa into my full power of femininity.
When I arrived in my community, it seems every guy driving a truck down the road I was walking on had a great appreciation for my feminine qualities, but the women were less convinced. I'm sure my khaki pants, desire to help with the farm, perceived inability to cook anything besides PB&J, and hopeless hair brought them sadness. Once they saw my in rubber boots and all laughed and asked if I'd bought a dairy farm. Thus, when my first summer rolled around, they began to develop “Proyecto Feminize La Gringita.” They insisted I participate in an INADEH course being offered in the community in manicures and pedicures. I insisted that only Panamanian citizens count in INADEH attendance, but they told me that it wasn't true and I had to come. I thought it was because they needed 15 people, now I feel it was my desperate state that made them insist in my participating. Since it was the summer, I obliged. Better to compartir with the women in the community than to read books, right? So, I sat through many hours of hand massages, nail design, aerobics sessions, and lots of lectures about positive thinking, taking care of yourself, and coming to the class even when your husband tells you you can't. We had to put on a beauty salon. At some point in the summer I went to the river with some community members. I was wearing my Tevas. They were all wearing those jelly ballet flats that were popular last summer. They looked at disgust at my shoes and told me I had to get some like theirs.
But, at some point during the summer, something happened. I walked into Podoroso and bought some bedazzled jean shorts, and some plastic ballet flats for 1.69. When I took those shoes into my beauty school class, all the women admired them. I started buying Avon products from those women entrepreneurs of the community. I received free pedicures (from those wanting to “practice”).
And my community noticed the results and the change. While pasearing one day, a girl told me I had started looking better (se arregla mejor) since being in the class. Now I have carried on 30 minute discussions comparing styles of those rubber Grendha style flip flops that are in style (I personally own like 6 pairs). I have gotten myself a boyfriend. And I have laughed along as a women in my community asked “What's up with those gringas you always see in David in khakis and chakaras?” As I look down at my nice fake pink Puma purse from the frontera, and think how I used to be, I smile. So, my fellow volunteers, does your community need to do work on you? Maybe they don't listen to your advice, not because of your horrible Spanish, but because of your wornout REI clothing and Chacos. My community might not remember all the projects I did, but I'm sure they'll all remember how they helped me out, hoping their project will be sustainable and bear results in the future as I go back in the U.S..

My kids making me pose:

updates

2010-07-28T10:33:00.000-07:00

Well, for those of you who didn't know. I'm obviously not back in the states yet. My official close-of-service date was June 24. But, I am still here in Panama working with Peace Corps! I decided to extend (for 4 months only) to continue my work as Regional Leader in Chiriqui. I finished up in site the end of June, like planned, and moved my stuff down to David. It was kind of hard to leave my site, but not as hard as could have been if I was leaving for real. I promised the town I'd "dar la vuelta" occasionally to come and visit. I didn't say my goodbyes yet. Moving my stuff was chaotic. I don't know how I accumulated so many things. It took 2 carloads!! Though, that was probably because I took almost everything. I mean, I have to furnish a new house and I still make very little money. So, now I am living in my beautiful home in David with my lovely roommate Joanna. Though, we both travel so much we almost never see each other. Now its time to work and start thinking about reentry in November

being an environmental volunteer

2010-06-07T16:20:00.000-07:00

So, I’m finishing up my 2 years as a community environmental conservation extentionist in Panama. But, if I ever felt I could teach these people something about the environment, I’m a fool. Yeah, they don’t really understand how global warming works, but they’ve noticed temperatures and water patterns change drastically over the last few years. They might not understand complex forest ecology and ecosystem services, but they’ve seen how bad drought can be in deforested areas. Since they actually live close to wildlife, they notice wildlife populations dropping. And they might not be granola, organic Whole Foods types, but they’ve seen family members die from cancer from agrochemicals.
If anything, I’ve learned from them. I’ve learned how to get everywhere I want by walking or taking a bus. I’ve learned what its like to not throw things away, to truly fix or reuse anything you have, so you can still use the same TV for 25 years, and store all your food in plastic ice cream containers. And I’ve learned what it’s really like to eat local. I think most things in the typical meal, from the rice to beans to veggies to meat to spices, to coffee to fruit juices, can all be found in my town or at least in my province. I bought a box of “comfort food” Kraft Mac and Cheese, while my neighbor eats her own free range chicken, her own beans, and drinks juice from her own orange trees and sugar cane, and I call myself the environmentalist? Afterwards, she will compost her organic waste. I’ve had to learn how to live in tune with the environment. I intentionally don’t buy plastic bottles. I guard rain water so I won’t waste too much from the town aqueduct. My electricity bill is like $3 because I don’t have a washer, dryer, air conditioning, or washing machine. When it gets hot, you just open the doors for some breeze, and dry your clothes in the sun. Yes, there are some problems people see down here you don’t get in the U.S., like trash in the streets and non-existant emissions standards for cars. But there’s also no dead-zone the size of New Jersey in any of their gulfs, there’s no rivers that run dry before reaching the ocean because of over-irrigation, and there aren’t coal powered power plants.
I just realized I can’t really be a true environmentalist when I go back. I won’t be able to eat local, like I do here. I won’t be able to air dry my clothes (apparently home owner’s associations have nasty rules against that). I won’t have an efficient bus or public transport system to use, and thus will be forced to own and drive a car. I’m a fool if I ever thought I was here to teach these people something. And I can understand why the global south rises up angry everytime the U.S. tries to act like a global environmental leader.

World Map finished!!

2010-05-25T09:39:00.000-07:00

Okay, I´ll say its finished. Actually, it could use some detailing, but one thing I´ve never been is a perfectionist-

Now, its time to put it to work. My idea right now, is little soccer balls for every country in the World Cup...Take advantage of something they´re paying attention to

World Map-part 2

2010-05-21T12:33:00.000-07:00

The next step is, of course, painting. With oil paints, this took quite a while, with pacience, small brushes, and some diesel to clean up the mistakes.

Then, write in the names and do the detailing.

World Map-part 1

2010-05-21T12:02:00.000-07:00

One of Peace Corp's initiatives world wide has been to paint a map of the world onto a wall somewhere in your community. In communities that usually lack educational resources like atlases or world maps, this can help your students learn about the world. A volunteer in the 80s in the Dominican Repiblic originally came up with the idea and created the guide for other PCVs to use.
This first step is drawing up a grid on the wall. The grid serves for later drawing the map.

Afterwards, you want to use the guide grids and your grid to slowly pass the map. No free-handed drawing skills necessary. Just lots of tedious copying. Luckily, I had my family visiting so I put them to work.

the birthday

2010-05-12T13:46:00.000-07:00

Well, I recently passed my 25th birthday...my third here in Panama. My first was during training, and included a serenade from some other trainees. Last year's was pretty uneventful. I can say this year it was great. The night before, a woman in my town stopped by my house at night to inform me that she had made me a birthday cake as promised (I don't remember her ever making that promise) and it was in her house if I wanted to come eat it with her or to take it and eat it somewhere else. I thanked her and let her know I'd be there to eat it the next day. I could tell things were off to a good start. On birthday day, I worked as usual in the school, where the kids sang me happy birthday and I got a hug from the teacher. I then went to David. The bus driver even remembered that it was my birthday. In David, I met with 2 other volunteers for some nachos and ice cream. Then, I picked up the trainee that was here to visit and shadow me for the weekend to get a taste of volunteer life. We got back to site, and I whisked her along to go visit my second family, where they had a great dinner of arroz con pollo and potato salad (birthday food) waiting for me. It was almost as if I was celebrating with my actual family, and hey, that rice and chicken dinner was just as good as going to Ruth's Chris. We then left there to continue our visits and go and enjoy some birthday cake. I did assure the trainee that not every day was this good.
It was all simple, nothing extravagant or over the top. But I felt very loved, and I guess that's all someone could want on their birthday. And as I reflected on being in the town for two years and having the experience I did, it really warmed my heart. Almost made me forget how old I'm getting.

Things I will always remember fondly

2010-04-05T12:33:00.000-07:00

-The amount of people in my town that have said I was like a daughter to them.

-Having a Panamanian goddaughter

-Being with my (short-lived) girl scouts group, and looking up to see 5 toucans in a tree in my yard. One girl proudly informed me the toucans were here because they knew I was an environmentalist and they were safe here.

-After two days waiting around Panama City for my friends to come from the U.S. and they missed their flight with Delta. I got a call from my friend, and she told me to just come back. I was all distraught, and said, “but its 7pm, I’ll get into David at like 2 am.” Her dad drove down to David to pick me up at the bus station, and let me know that I was like family to them, and just like they would pick up their own daughters at 2 am, they would do it for me.

-My counterpart told me she’s never asked me for a picture, because she knows I’ll come back after I leave. I told her I’d still give her a picture, so she can remember me young, beautiful, and skinny.

-Interacting with people from other communities or areas and hearing them say they want to take me with them.

-My first birthday in Panama, during training. My host mom made a big dinner and bought a cake. Later that night, a few other volunteers showed up with a guitar to sing me Happy Birthday.

another Peace Corps moment

2010-04-05T12:27:00.000-07:00

Another typical Panama story. My dog got hit by a car a few months ago. She was bloody, cut up,couldn't walk, and I really thought she was going to die. A couple days after the accident, she was alive but suffering. While talking with a neighbor, someone else stopped by in their car, and heard about her as well. All of them starting mentioning medicinal plants that I could use. When I later arrived at my house, this is what greeted me…

Yep, the guy had gone, found the necessary plant, cut me off the branches, and left me the instructions. I used it (as well as some penicillin). My dog limps, but she’s alive and kicking!

Peace Corps moment

2010-04-05T12:25:00.000-07:00

Here’s a story that I like to share. It happened when I had only been in my community less than a month. I had met a few ladies from a small town up the mountain who had invited me to come to a Bingo they were putting on that Sunday. (Bingo is super popular is Panama). I told them I’d like to come, but I’d never been to the community and wasn’t sure how to get there. A few days later, an older gentlemen, who was kind of my neighbor, I think, asked if I was going to go to the Bingo the next day. I told him that I wanted to, but I didn’t know the road, or how long it would take to walk, or if there was a bus. He told me, “Don’t worry, we’ll arrange some transportation to take you.” I said that’d be great, and I’d be ready the next day at noon.
The next day, I got back from working tilling ground and planting yucca, and started cleaning up quickly to be ready. I heard the guy call from out the door, and I walked out to find him on his horse, asking if I was ready. I looked around for the truck, but said, sure. He asked if I’d ever ridden a horse, which I have. He just said, “great, I got an umbrella in case it rains, let’s go!” He meant…me and him sharing the same horse! Well, I couldn’t say no…So, I got on the saddle, and he got on behind me (by the way, he’s like 70 and maybe 5 ft tall). We then rode through town, every town member pointing and laughing at me. At least I was in front, so I could just laugh at myself without him seeing.
I later found out the word got out real fast about my ride. The next day, at the small town store, the owner told me, “Abby, next time you need to go somewhere on a horse, I have one I can loan you!”

The morning commute

2010-03-17T12:52:00.000-07:00

I remember sitting on the bus in DC going to work one morning (yes, the lovely commute). I looked up and saw this Peace Corps recruiting poster that had some lovely picture and said something like....Wanna change your morning commute? I just smiled to myself because I had already applied, because the answer to that question was a definite yes.

Here is a picture of my current morning commute. The commute may change in a few months....I´m not sure to what

2010-02-17T11:31:00.000-08:00

What will I miss from Panama
-Seeing an amazing amount of stars and the Milky Way up in the sky
-Getting free meals (even to go) everywhere I go. (I'm sure looking too skinny doesn't hurt either)
-Fruit trees everywhere. There's so many varieties of fruits just for the taking.
-Speaking of Fruit....Guava, Guayaba, 50 cent pineapples, Mangoteen, Maracuya, 15 different types of bananas, Mangos, Mamones,
-A full meal for 1.75
-Having everyone say Hi or call out your name when you walk by
-Being seen as an expert (by some) and treated as a child (by many)
-Great Coffee
-Mixing up treats using Cacao from other volunteers communities, and raw sugar cakes and fresh cow milk from my community. Or oranges from my back yard.
-Eating the chicken that was just walking around. Talk about eating local
-Making my own schedule. 6 am to 10 pm running around one day, laying in the hammock reading the next.
-Visiting other volunteers, which allows you to see the great work being done by volunteers and their pioneering counterparts
-My dog, Lula. I speak to her in Spanish though I'm not sure she understands or obeys a single thing I say
-Staring up at a Volcano every day

news

2010-01-27T10:35:00.000-08:00

Well, I'm in the middle of my Regional Leader duties. Visiting potential communitites for incoming volunteers and planning for the regional meeting. I'm keeping pretty busy this January. The family was just here for 10 days. We got to visit both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts and enjoy both the tropical sun and tropical rains.

Overall things continue to go well here in Panama. Wierd to think how things are winding down and how in 5 months, I'll be done here. In some ways I feel I've been here forever, but in others, like I just arrived. And certain projects are only now just getting off the ground. But, noone's really here to save the world. All we can do is give little nudges in the right directions.

For those interested, what I'm working on right now:

Painting a map of the world on a school wall
Developing future sites
Helped put on an Ecological Camp
Helping at a Leadership Seminar for Volunteers and their counterparts
Working on a tree nursery with the community group to plant trees near streams in cow pastures
Trying to bring in funding for my environmental group to put on a project like reforestation or an orchid nursery.

2010-01-08T09:37:00.000-08:00

Being in Panama

-Where when someone jokingly insults me or does something silly, I can respond purely with “tu si eres” (translated, you sure are)
-Where I sing along with reggaeton songs on the radio in the bus…I started doing that back in the U.S. before realizing I looked insane
-Where I, the environmentalist, think the best thing development-wise that can happen for a town is to get a road. That’s right, all you hippy international development workers. Let’s go back to the 50s. Infrastructure is what is up.
-Where I can get heavy things carried for me or get rides so I don’t have to walk (chauvinism is not all bad)
-Where my blue eyes enchant and are considered super sexy
-Where when I try to leave someone’s home, they plead “no te vayas, espera la comida” (don’t leave, wait for the food), and if I decline they give me the insulted sad face or what? You don’t like my cooking?
-Where when it gets too hot, you should just go jump in the river

Holiday wishes (slightly late

2010-01-08T09:34:00.000-08:00

I had emailed this out and posted on Facebook, but in case you don't get either of those and do check this....

I just want to send you all a quick e-mail from here in Panama wishing you all the best for Christmas and New Years. I will be spending (my second) Christmas here in Palma Real, Panama. I’m sure it will be very laid back. I’ve enjoyed this year down here immensely. I feel like I’ve had some more work, more projects coming along. My environmental group went from never meeting at all to developing project plans and starting a tree nursery (though I won’t take too much credit for either of those). I’ve also ran a recycling material collection campaign at the school as well as teaching environmental classes and computers (and a little English). This year I was also involved in a planning committee for cultural events throughout my district. And, this year I also got promoted to being the Regional Leader (for my province Chiriqui). I’m enjoying the new job and responsibilities, which include visiting and supporting the volunteers in my region, developing new communities for future volunteers, and coordinating with the government agencies. It keeps me busier, but I find it rewarding. I also even managed to make a trip back to the U.S. this year in September, and I enjoyed seeing a few of you (the week went by way too fast).
So, I wish you all the best in this holiday season and in the upcoming year of 2010. This will be the year I appear back in the States, and who knows what I’ll be doing then. As I sit here in my little home enjoying the sun, palm trees, and the 70 degree heat, I miss you all, but I don’t actually miss the “white” Christmas idea that much.
Keep in touch and let me know what you’re up to.

Poco a Poco

2009-11-21T08:20:00.000-08:00

They have a little saying here in Peace Corps Panama about “Poco a Poco.” It translates to little by little. They often use it to refer to the slow pace of change. If you thought you were going to show up in your community and on day two be changing the world…think again. Fast paced DC life is behind, people take a laid back approach to things, and change is always slow. Think about your work as poco a poco. In some ways this is true. Now well into my second year of service, I have much more direction and work than my first year. It take a while to really know your town and for things to start happening. That’s why a Peace Corps volunteer needs 2 years.
But, after today I have a new definition for poco a poco. I’m gonna say it also means take things a little at a time, as far as amount of work. After months of showing up at school and working and nothing happening, I came upon two great ideas. First, my recycling collection is going slow, even after 3 months not many people have brought stuff in and the end of the year is upon us. Why don’t we declare a competition of the classrooms with a prize for which class brings the most? Second, why don’t we introduce Panamanians to school photos? You know, class shot, individual shot, sell them? Both these started this week, with me serving as recycling coordinator and counter, photographer (actually, basically just call me Jostens, I’m in charge of the whole thing down to printing). The principal of my school talked about the ingenious idea of taking class pictures to sell, said probably soon every school would be doing it, but that our school was the first. Just, I wish I’d only had one ingenious idea at a time.
So, this morning as I was trying to count beer cans, take pictures, and keep orders, I realized I had too much. Trying to organize first graders to take pictures while another kid throws a quarter at me saying “my mom wants to buy that picture of me” and another kid comes up with “how many points does third grade have, did you see the entire wheelbarrow of cans I brought?” I started to go crazy. It was like waiting tables at a full restaurant again. I’m sure the kids could see it. But, ultimately, enthusiasm is contagious. And getting kids excited about bringing all those beer bottles their dad has sitting around behind the house, and getting a class photo (where probably 90% of families don’t own cameras). I felt I was doing something good. Especially after a year and a half of poco a poco.

back to Panama

2009-09-23T14:52:00.000-07:00

Back to my site after visiting the U.S. Some people told me they’d been worried that I was going to stay in the U.S. and that I was missed. It actually wasn’t very weird being gone. Though, I’m sure in ten months it will be. I was super happy to see that my recycling project had gone ahead without my presence. The teachers seemed to manage it just fine despite their worries that they wouldn’t be able to do it without me. Hey, that’s the sustainability us Peace Corps volunteers go for.
I’m also going to take on a new role: Regional Leader. It’s a volunteer that helps with volunteer support and agency relations at the regional level (like, for my province). Somewhat of a promotion. I’ll see if the new responsibilities become overwhelming or not. I don’t officially start until November, so the next month is for preparing and learning the ropes.

visit to the U.S.

2009-09-14T15:35:00.000-07:00

I am currently here in my last day for my first (and probably only) visit to the U.S. during Peace Corps Service. It wasn't as wierd coming back as I thought it was going to be. I've been enjoying my time eating delicious food, doing a little shopping, seeing friends, and playing with my parents adorable new puppy. My main reason for coming was to see my friend Michelle get married in Boston, which was really nice. Though I didn't do too much shopping because the prices are a lot higher than what I'm used to or what I can afford.

Things that were different or wierd:
Obviously, I was observing a different wealth level and standard of living, but I guess I was prepared for that so it didn't shock me too much.
Touch screen phones. When I left the U.S. the blackberry and iPhone existed, but I only knew a handful of people that had one. When I come back, everyone has these snazzy touch phones and make fun of the ones that close. I'm used to people admiring my phone because it has a color screen, so it was wierd.
Realized I'd gone a year and a half without seeing anyone drink Starbucks. Didn't miss that at all.
Mostly it surprised me how expensive stuff was. The exact same Snickers that cost $1 here costs 60 cents there. I'm used to full dinners at restaurants for $2 and sodas for 35 cents. Blowing my day's wages to split a cab with some people was hard for me.
Going to a Kings of Leon concert since they've become popular. I've been a fan of this band for like 6 years. Used to seeing them at small clubs. I came back and went to Merriweather to see them with my brother. I was not feeling to sorority girls around us that only knew like 2 songs.
And mostly, the political situation in the country. This was my first time in the country with a President Obama. I watched that Obama speech where someone yells out "Lies!" and heard all this coverage about parents refusing to send their kids to school so they wouldn't hear the president talk about studying and staying in school. As I thought about Health Care, I just felt this sinking feeling that nothing would get solved with all this petty fighting. I remember Bush and how much people disliked him, but this level of disrespect and division was really disheartening to view in my country.

Happy 4th!

2009-07-04T11:19:00.000-07:00

People always tell me nasty things about not updating my blog. I just honestly don´t have too much to report in a public space like the internet
I have now been in my town for one year. Work goes slow, but the initial worries about people liking or hating me are long gone. I now have a small town full of family. We finished a lot of work related to community events for the provincial anniversary back in May. Now I´m spending most of my time working in a few different schools. My sister Jessica and uncle Dale (whose name means Do it! in Spanish) was just here visiting. No more visits are on the docket besides my own to the U.S. in September. Start making plans to visit me people! I know the economy is bad but a full dinner here costs $1.75!

update (the few and far between)

2009-05-04T10:08:00.000-07:00

Sorry I don’t update the blog much. In the past month, I have had two groups of friends come to visit. So, I got to play hostess and travel around the country a little. The first trip was a total disaster, with one glaring lesson: never fly Delta. Listen to that advice people. I have two words for you. Come visit me, but don’t fly Delta when you do. The second trip went off wonderfully, until the last day when insane Easter traffic jams led to a missed return flight. Lesson on that one: everyone and their mother (literally) are traveling to Panama City on Easter to go home after Holy Week, do not travel that day.
We also had an All-Volunteer Conference, so I got to see some of my other volunteers.
I also realized that this blog is now one year old. On April 16th, I finished one year of being in Panama. Since service is 27 months, I’m still a little short of half way. But, I have to say, looking back on the past year. I’m not sure I’ve accomplished very much in terms of saving the world, but I’ve had a lot of fun, learned a lot of new things about the world, am immensely looking forward to the next year, and it will be hard to leave.

pity, love, gringa hotness

2009-03-15T09:53:00.000-07:00

Ok, as volunteers, we make very little money. But, I always have money left over. Partly, because I never really travel or stay in hotels. It’s that over integration/site rat aspect of me. The rest is mostly related to the fact that I get pretty much everything given to me. I attribute this to three factors: love, pity, and gringa hotness.

First, gringa hotness. It is a well known fact to any white girl to appear in Panama that Panamanian men love gringas. Any moment I walk down the street, I am greeted with hisses, “I love you”s, and “hellos.” I am pretty sure that most men I run into, whether 12 year old boys, or heads of government agencies, have hit on me. But, this gringa hotness has its advantages. For example, I went to Carnaval with two other volunteers. We got some free beers, and my friend even got her bus fare paid for. I get offered free rides pretty much anywhere I go. There’s nothing that pulls the heart strings of a Panamanian man like a gringa walking on the side of the road. He is obligated to try and offer her a lift. I have even been offered free rides from taxis and busses. This leads into the second.

Pity: That’s right, that poor girl was walking by herself under the sun on the side of the road. She needs a ride. Of course, I’m pretty sure when people in my town look at me, they just see this poor girl, who’s down here living by herself without her family. Most of the questions I get asked are just whether I miss my family and if I’m scared to live alone. Plus, they are pretty sure I can’t cook. So, I get so much food, or rides, or whatever help they can offer me. I know most male volunteers don’t even have to wash their clothes, they are so pitied for being alone, without a mom or a wife.

Finally, love: I was one describing to one of my friends in site my theories of pity and “gringa sexy.” He laughed, but then told me that I was wrong. People like me and want to bless me with things. I am used to going to visit people and shoot the breeze. Usually, I also get offered a little cup of juice or a cookie, or if I hit the jackpot, a whole meal. But, the other day, I answered my front door to find my neighbor from across the street at my door with some soup for me, and even a little extra food for my dog. It was a revelation, she either pitied or loved me so much, that she would bring me food, and I didn’t even have to visit her (though I do regularly, don’t worry).

It’s things like these that I will definitely miss back in the states, where no one even says hi or helps strangers. Is there a town that will take me in and adopt me with all the love I’ve received here in Panama when I go back in a year and a half?

am I becoming too Panamanian?

2009-03-15T09:48:00.000-07:00

I scare myself sometimes. I think I’m starting to become what you might call “over integrated.” In the past week, I’ve had at least a couple times where people told me I was Panamanian. Admittedly, they were in relation to painted nails and threatening to fight a girl with a knife over a boy (jokingly, don’t worry). Just yesterday, I arrived in Albrook mall in Panama City. When I first arrived in country, I thought, wow, this is just like a mall in the U.S. This time, my little rural self felt so uncomfortable with the shiny, expensive stores, I tried to get out as soon as possible (but, after buying a Jr. Bacon Cheeseburger, of course). But, here’s another one for example. These are the shoes I brought with me:

I never use them. They sit in my “closet” (aka, the floor under the bar that holds my clothes on hangers at the foot of my bed). Here, on the other hand, are the shoes I use every day:

Oh yeah, they are ugly. In the U.S. I would have mocked them. But, here I find them strangely attractive. Look at those orange jellies. The other day I went to the creek with some girls from my town. I was wearing some Teva Flip-flops. Every single one of them and their mother were wearing these shoes. They looked at my Tevas in disdain. The next time I went to David, I immediately bought myself a pair of those jellies for 1.59. The next day when I walked into my manicure class, they ladies just admired them and smiled at me. Probably thinking, finally we’ve started to help this poor gringa.

But seriously, while other volunteers like to travel and visit other parts of the country, I start to feel uncomfortable being outside of my town, my home, for even an afternoon. It’s gonna be super hard in a year and a half.

what´s new

2009-02-25T11:25:00.000-08:00

Sorry I don´t update this blog very often. Life continues to be busy and interesting, but not really in ways that can be put in words and posted on the internet. I am enjoying the summer here. I went to the beach in a busload with my community. Plus, plenty of little trips to the swimming hole in the river. I´m still working too (well, a little). I have an English class twice a week, am working on my girl scouts troop, planning for the next school year, and translating for some hikes, plus I continue to accept all meeting invitations (and social invitations as well) and attending various conferences. I’m even taking a class in manicure and pedicure with other woman in the community. Who knew that I might return from Peace Corps ready to start a salon! Of course, the start date of school here got pushed back from March to April. In some ways this is good, because I was not as prepared as I thought I’d be and I have another month of “vacation”. But, in some ways, the kids will be missing out on a month of learning. The days contain their disappointments and surprises. The other day, after a sad girl scouts meeting, when only two girls came, I was pleasantly surprised by the arrival of a donation of 4 tanks to use for the school recycling project.
I also went and celebrated a little bit of Carnaval yesterday. I didn’t go all out and travel to the Azuero peninsula like my compatriots, but opted rather for a half a day in a nearby city. I missed out of the parades, mostly it just consisted of a pit of people drinking and getting hosed down (by representatives of the political parties, nonetheless). Somewhat fun, but hopefully people fit in enough sin and are now ready for Ash Wednesday and Lent.
Sorry for the sorry updates. If you want to know what’s going on. Shoot me an e-mail or give me a call.

christmas

2008-12-23T08:16:00.001-08:00

I just want to send out Merry Christmas greetings to all. I´ll be spending Christmas here in my community in Panama. Not quite sure what the plans are. Something about the tropical climate makes it feel not quite like Christmas, but I´m looking forward to seeing new cultural celebrations.
Merry Christmas to all!! Feliz Navidad!!

Development Theory

2008-12-12T13:21:00.001-08:00

So, I’m in Peace Corps. Thus, I am in a “third world,” “underdeveloped” or “developing” country. Here’s my International Relations/American University opinion of this experience.
I am not in a “third world” country, in whatever negative, patronizing connotations that might hold. If you think I am surrounded by huts, famines, and big-bellied parasitic children, I am not.
Instead, let’s think of “developing.” Developing countries, in the true active sense of this word, are moving from the rural to the urban. from subsistence to money-making agriculture, from isolated to connected, from illiterate to educated, from poor to middle class, etc. There are many indicators of development. Some of the key elements of “developing” countries are falling birthrates, increasing education, urbanization, professional jobs, and infrastructure. Ports, roads, railways, airports, telecommunications infrastructure are all being developed.
Thus, we come to my site. This was the view from my front door this morning:

That’s right. The road is a coming. Now, my site wasn’t like some where volunteers have to hike in. We had a paved road. It was old and full of potholes, but cars could come through. But, in Panama’s development, new roads are important. Thus, I often heard of this “ruta sur” or road that would connect Cerro Punta and Boquete and would pass through town. This will change travel time from like 4 to 1 hours between the two towns. I spent one week out of site in a training seminar. When I arrived back, about 3 feet of my yard had disappeared. Two days ago, another couple feet were gone. Tubes lay in the streets, dump trucks pass by every half hour. Unfamiliar construction workers holler at me. Heavy machinery and equipment appeared in the streets.
Development was happening.
Now, noise is everywhere. Knick-knacks fell off shelves and my walls shook like I was in an earthquake. As I walked to the store this morning, people in my community had paused mid-morning and huddled together to watch the machines at work.
This road will cut transport time substantially. It will be a much more efficient route between two large cities. Transport in and out of my town will be better. More tourists will begin passing through my town. We will have the opportunity to open restaurants, sell items, and make more money. Yet, the traffic will be higher and faster. No longer will I be able to stroll the streets, stopping to visit my neighbors. My town will become merely a town along a highway.
Development is happening.

A day in the life

2008-11-21T07:14:00.000-08:00

People always ask what a typical day is like. The answer is that all the days are kind of the same and no two days are alike. I mean, whenever I try to think back about what I accomplished in a given week, it blurs together. But, here’s a schedule from Yesterday
6:30/7 am: woke up. My puppy was whining outside, but I tried to ignore her. I knew I could sleep in today. I probably slept in until like 7:30. I then fed the puppy and started making my breakfast of coffee and cereal, the normal. I then frittered away a few morning hours sweeping, looking through English teaching materials, reading Jerry Bridges, and keeping alert for any havoc the puppy might wreak.
10 am: caught the bus. I needed to by some screen because tomorrow in the school we’ll be making recycled paper. Since asking at the agropecuaria store in Potrerillos was fruitless, I needed to look elsewhere. I could have gone to David, but didn’t feel like it. So, I decided to just go to Dolega. Luckily, my friend and “comadre” Rebecca was on the same bus so I could chat with her and my “goddaughter” Astrid. We both got off in Dolega. I used the time to buy the screen, some groceries that can’t be found in the local tienda, and call my parents since the pay phone in town in broken.
12 noon: caught the bus from Dolega back to town. I hadn’t wanted to stay out long. Was back in town within a half hour. Made some lunch, which was reheating a tamale I’d bought at a community event the day before. Played with the dog. Started to read a little. Decided to go Pasear before it got later.
1/1:30 pm: left house. Called Marina to let her know I’d stop by her house so she could chain up the dog that has tried to kill me. Walk up the dirt road about 10 minutes to get to her house. Chat with her parents. She feeds me some lunch (my second) and some coffee. We chat about the environmental group and planning a meeting and what she had done while going to the environmental network meeting.
3 pm: leave Marina’s house. On my way down the hill I stop by to talk with Jose and Amarilis. Jose is president of the environmental group and Amarilis is school chef extrodonaire and member of the group. I ask Amarilis the same questions I’d been talking to Marina about. And we all talk about planning a meeting for the environmental group (which they haven’t had since I’ve arrived). While I’m there, it starts to downpour. This means I’m pretty much trapped in the house, plus, rain on a zinc roof ensures we can’t hear each other.
4:30/5 pm: The rain finally stops. After we’re sure it won’t start again, and the approaching night ensures we have to leave anyway, Amarilis and I venture down the hill and I return to my house, where my dog is super happy to see me, and more happy about the food she will be fed.
6 pm: Make myself a delicious dinner of rice and lentils. Enjoy some reading in my hammock. Listen to “Blanco y Negro” the best radio program that is pure 80s rock magic. Take a shower. Then, I went about preparing some screens for the papermaking the next day in the school.
9:30/10 pm: Go to bed

Here’s Today’s Schedule

7 am: wake up. Feed the dog. Make coffee and cereal breakfast. I notice the water is being tempermental, and the faucet is starting to dry out. Thus, I don’t wear my contacts.
8:30 am: I get a later start to the school than I had originally planned, but I carry my screens and head to the school. I plan to use the first couple hours to set stuff up, and then make paper after recess. When, I get to the school, I discover that the school is without water. The construction up the road cut the pipes so the community will be without water the whole day. Without water, we can’t make paper. Plus, the kids will be let out early to avoid the bathroom mess and lack of drinking water. I hang around the school for a few hours helping Amarilis make the crema (fortified drink all school children are given everyday to ensure they aren’t malnourished.) and wash the dishes and shoot the breeze.
11:30am: I leave the school. One girl Paola, that lives across the street, tells me I need to come to her house. I go. It gives me the opportunity to chat with my neighbors, and I end up getting a soup lunch out of it, which was delicious.
12:30: go back home. Play with the puppy a little, read a little
1 pm: I go to visit Rosa and “comadre” Rebecca. Rebecca and I had previously talked about going to church that night so I ask if they’re still planning on going, and if they know what time. Chat a little. I head back home. It starts downpouring rain as soon as I arrive, so I just hang around my house a little.
3 pm: Once the rain has cleared, I put my laptop in my backpack and start walking to “the gringos.” There happens to be another American couple living in my town. They are very nice, occasionally give me family time eating lasagna and watching U.S. TV shows. They also have wifi internet. They bought extra laptops to allow community kids, or peace corps volunteers , to come to the house and use internet. I check my e-mail, send a message to my parents about what we’d discussed the day before, try downloading some stuff on iTunes (too slow).
5 pm: knowing I have to go to church later, I head back home. Cook a little dinner. Feed the puppy. The house is still without water. Luckily, it’s been raining, so the jars a left out and are at least full of rainwater.
6:30 pm: The bus shows up to take us to a church service in a nearby community, about 10 of us go.
10 pm: Leave the church and return to my pueblo. Super tired, and the house still dry, I go straight to bed.

Crocs

2008-10-30T08:50:00.000-07:00

I hated Crocs. Along with Uggs, I considered them the ugliest footwear. I could not understand how they could be trendy. Perhaps for 2 year old boys, they were less offensive, but never for an adult. I gagged every time I saw these neon colored, swiss-cheese clogs.
In Panama, cheap clothes and shoes and general knockoffs are abundant. Teva-like flip flops? 2 bucks. Fake crocs? 2 bucks. I noticed these fake crocs were pretty popular, but I just brushed it off as something horrible from America creeping South.
I will now admit that I own two pairs of fake crocs. They are also my favorite thing to wear. Let me explain. Here in Panama, it rains 9 months of the year (referred to as “winter” though I’m sure the temperature is the same). Many roads are dirt and rock, and even asphalt roads have horrible drainage, and basically turn into a swimming pool when it rains. Most of the other volunteers I know wear exclusively rubber boots.

I, being in a “ye-ye” or rich site, with a paved road, don’t need to wear boots too much. I was actually wearing my rubber boots the other day, and my neighbors all laughed at me, asking me if I’d just bought a dairy farm. But, I was getting frustrated in footwear. Sneakers don’t work, because I’m usually squishing around in them or they get super muddy. Flip flops also don’t work, because, while they dry faster, my whole foot gets wet, and I’m sliding around, plus ants can still bite me.

Then, it dawned on me…. These fake crocs might serve for something. I bought a pair on impulse. A few days later, I had worn them over to a neighbor’s house, which involves walking a muddy entrance to get to. She looked at my shoes, and was like “ah, you’re learning.” A week later I bought a second pair. They are great. They’re pretty comfy. They more-or-less (not perfectly) protect your feet from getting wet or muddy, and they dry super fast.
Yes, little changes that take place while living in another country. Who ever would have thought I’d write an ode and blog entry to the shoes I once despised.

6 months in country

2008-10-17T09:22:00.000-07:00

I have now been living in my community a little over 3 months, which was the rough “adjustment” amount of time Peace Corps gives us. I feel like I’ve adjusted pretty well. I don’t yet feel part of the community (hey, I’ve only lived here 3 months), but I feel well accepted. I feel comfortable with people from all the different families and sectors, hopefully transcending small town cliques. I feel respected. I’m not sure the people know why I’m here yet, but they always smile and stop to converse with me, as opposed to the skepticism I originally received.
I don’t think the cultural transition for me has been an U.S. to Panama transition. It’s more of a city to country transition. I’m sure if I had grown up in a small, farming town in the U.S., I would feel like I was at home here (just without a winter and with occasional monkey sightings). But, I came from a city of great unfriendliness, competition, and ambition where I never actually spoke to my neighbors in my apartment building. Conversations revolved around politics and trying to appear cultured and smart. Here, my conversations revolve around the rain, cows, sugarcane, and extensive families where everyone is related. If I don’t greet someone in the street, that’s an affront. My afternoons usually include just wandering around town and showing up at peoples’ doors just to shoot the breeze. Doors remain open so visitors will stop by, and some juice and cookies usually await. The rat race pace of life has given way to a slower pace where I occasionally put off tasks for weeks. And of course, rain is a great excuse to not do anything but take a nap.
One very cool experience I had about a month ago was attending a velorio (wake). I know these exist in the U.S., but this was my first. A guy in town died in Panama City. I hadn’t met him, but I know the family. First, people went around collecting money to help bring the body back (just like they had collected money to send him to the City for the care he needed). The family awaited the body. The night that the body arrived, the street in front of their house was full. Basically the entire town came out to stop by the house just so the family wouldn’t feel alone. Some went inside to talk or pass by the body, but many just hung out in front, and the street was full of people. I only stopped by around 9-10 PM, but apparently people will stay all night. The next day, most turned out for the funeral and then traveled with the people that have trucks for the burial. It was somber, not really social. But, I really felt like part of the community.

My new house

2008-10-17T09:18:00.000-07:00

Above you will see a picture of my new house. Yes, I’ve lived with random families for six months. Upon arriving in my community, I started asking around for the house I could possibly rent after the 3 months of mandatory host family ended. People all told me there wasn’t anything, and were generally shocked that a young woman would live on her own (which is possibly why they told me there wasn’t anything when there was). They still act somewhat concerned for my safety, mostly because malientes exist like an hour away. But, after enough asking around, I found some different options, and then my final arrangement. One woman in my town (“La Negra”) actually lives and works in another town, and only returns every couple weeks to visit her parents. Otherwise, the house just sits unused. So, I now have a house. I mean, I’m kind of renting it/kind of permanently housesitting. But, it’s right in the middle of town, and it was almost completely furnished, down to the mandatory Virgin Mary pictures. I’m very happy. I went out and bought a hammock right away for the front porch. Putting my house in order has been a lot of work, but I’m very happy. And a great burden has been lifted as I finally have a space of my own in the middle of my community.

Some pictures

2008-10-03T11:43:00.000-07:00

These are some pictures from the school, from our garden. From the organic farm that my environmental group has. From a baptism in the river

news

2008-09-10T14:44:00.000-07:00

Enjoy these pictures.
Life keeps moving on. I’m starting to feel more accepted by my community, with friendships, conversations, and plenty of jokes. I get lots of laughter. I like to think my community members think I’m funny. The other side of this is that I’m starting to get some male suitors. My host dad thinks it’s great. I’ve transitioned into this more traditional society where I think my host dad is selling me off for a cow or something. I take advantage of it though. I told one of my friends I should have a pageant/contest, which he named “nacionalizarse la gringita.”
As far as work goes, I’m still looking into my options. This is what I have
-Environmental Education in the school. I’ve done a little of this, but I could potentially transition into a role where I teach like one class a week about the environment in my school. I already have started a school garden, too. I want to make it better, get kids learning how to grow organic.
-Environmental group. My environmental group is a little unactive right now, so some injection of energy and reorganization is needed. I think I could use this group towards their current project of tree planting, some trash management, and some environmental education charlas. The environmental group is also part of a network and we have a huge plot in a nearby community that we’re using as a demonstrative organic agriculture plot.
-Trash management. We do actually have a trash truck in my community, pretty rare for Panama. But, what I’d like to bring in is some degree of recycling and composting.
-Youth group. I’d like to start up a youth group, hopefully environmentally oriented. Youth don’t really have much stuff to do around here.
-Teach English. Yeah, not in my job description, but I might cave and teach an English class one of these days. People keep asking.
-Ecotourism promotion. No real tourists arrive to this area, but a new road will be passing through the area in the near future, and a housing development is being built nearby. There’s also a group of people that have already taken a class for promoting tourism, and want to start up some potential tours and hikes.
-Organic Fair Trade Artisanal Sugar Promotion. This is my BHAG (big hairy ambitious goal). The economic basis of my community is making a hard brown sugar cake called panela. So, sugar cane lines my streets, most men have mills to mill the sugar cane and boil it into sugar. And not bags of white industrial sugar, but real pure brown sugar, like people have made it for hundreds of years. Plus, growing sugar cane is organic. They just plant it and let it go. And all the waste is organic and used for fertilizer or firewood. My community has an association. They want to get health certified, they want to get organic certified. They want things to be better. My dream is to get some tourism, and some exportation into better markets for these guys, so they can make some money. I’m not sure how I’m gonna do it. If anyone wants to help me with this, let me know.

some musings

2008-08-23T14:40:00.000-07:00

These are copies of an essay I wrote recently about the region of Panama I live in, called Chiriqui.

To which U.S. state can we compare Chiriqui?

Yes, Chiriqui is orgulloso. We have our own flag, and many consider Chiriqui to be its own independent republic. For this reason, I’ve heard many people compare Chiriqui to Texas. To some degree I can understand. In my community, its very cowboy. The average man of Potrerillos saunters through town in cowboy boots, a big belt buckle, and a cowboy hat, traveling either by horse, truck, or tractor. Trucks full of cows and calves drive by my house every hour or so.

I, though, would compare Chiriqui to another state. I feel that Chiriqui is more the California of Panama. Chiriqui is both a tourist and an agricultural powerhouse. Beautiful, cool, mountains and sunny beaches lie within a few hours of each other. Beautiful national parks attract hikers and visitors. Amistad and Volcan might as well be Yosemite, King’s Canyon, and Redwood. And this beautiful land provides other bounties. We don’t grow the staple rice to feed the country, like they do in the breadbasket of Veraguas (aka Midwest). But, we provide the fruits and veggies. Lettuce, berries, oranges, tomatoes, and spinach flow out of Chiriqui to keep Panama in good nutrition. Plus, Chiriqui faces an immigration problem. People are fleeing South to enjoy the mountains and sunny beaches that Chiriqui has to offer for their retirement. Plus, Chiricanos also suffer the constant threat of earthquakes.

Others have another opinion about Chiriqui. For her, Chiriqui has always been the Montana of Panama...It has tons of California (aka gringos) coming into a mountainous paradise and raising the prices for all the farmers, ranchers and nature dorks who were there before them.

Whatever the comparison, Chiriqui is a force to be reckoned with. You can develop your own comparison as you explore, but the West side is definitely the best side.

Not really news, I know. If you want that, well, life still consists of hanging out at school, visiting people, speaking Spanish...the basics.

More goodies

2008-08-13T12:31:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, a young girl (that I am in some way “related” to, which is probably true of half the town) and I went to the supermarket close to town. This also happened to be around the time that people were getting off work and hanging out in front. We bought some cookies and left. As we walked out, she just turned to me and said, “Abby, todo el mundo estaba viendote (everyone was looking at you).” I just replied, “Esto es mi vida (This is my life).” I was reading an article by another volunteer, where she said she was the Paris Hilton to the people here. It’s kind of like that. I’m tall, blonde (people tell me all the time that I look like a Barbie), I am perceived as super rich, I have electronic gadgets, I have flown in an airplane, guys hit on me all the time only for my gringaness, and I am a subject of gossip. There are no DUIs, sex tapes, jail time, or Larry King interviews, and I try to keep my conduct super far from scandalous. But, I’m kind of a celebrity here.

No big events or news to announce, but life keeps on moving. Here are a couple more lists.

Things I didn’t like, but now I do:

1. Patacones. These are twice deep-fried, smashed green platanos. They are delicious. If you come to Panama, you must eat them. I will probably keep making them after I return to the States.
2. Being called “the Joven.” I found this insulting, being that I know I look like I’m 15, and it’s a challenge for people to respect me as an educated professional when they think I’m a high school exchange student. But, I’ve since found that Joven means more like a young professional person. I’d still prefer they called me by my actual name, and not “the joven,” “the gringa” or “the muchacha.” Though, when I once corrected some kids to call me by my name as opposed to “teacher”, the other teacher pulled me aside, and gave me a talking to about how she respected me as an educator, and these kids will show me respect.
3. Hojaldres. At first I thought they were boring, but I’ve come to realize how delicious deep-fried dough can be.

Things that are funny to Panamanians that I do or say:

1. I really like Arroz con Pollo, which is basically, rice, vegetables and chicken. Its sort of like the special celebration and birthday dish. I always act really excited when I get to eat it. I think my host dad thinks I go to special events just to eat it. People will tell me in advance that we’re going to eat it just so I can get excited. I also get very excited about rice and lentils.

2. I walk all the time.

3. I tell people I’m looking for a rich old Panamanian man, to balance out all the old Americans here that have young Panamanian girlfriends. Or, they ask me if I’m going to go to Boquete to meet some gringos, and I just reply that all the gringos there are old.

4. I make up Spanish words all the time. I made up a word for surgery. I made up the word for sweeping. Mostly people just nod and smile, but they catch me sometimes. And then its always a good story.

5. I have a really little umbrella that I can pull out of my purse.

6. I am kind to animals, pet them, and pick up all puppies and kittens.

7. And of course, the fact that I often misunderstand them. Hopefully I don’t appear as confused as I really am all the time.

Well, school has started again after two weeks of vacation. I used the time to try and meet more people and I stayed pretty busy. I got invited to a lot of different meetings. I also visited Cerro Punta and Boquete, the two mountain towns that get tourists (or retirees). Panamanians of course refer to these places as “really cold.” The day we went to Boquete, where it was probably about 60, my little niece showed up in gloves, scarf, and hat. (Photos of Boquete above).

one month in

2008-07-31T09:19:00.000-07:00

Things are still going pretty good. I have a month in site now. In some ways, it feels like the time flew, but there were definitely some long days involved. I do feel like I’m getting more integrated, though. I mean, now people will wave at me, or call out Abby, or ask me how I am, as opposed to stare at me and whisper. The pace of life is very different from DC (polar opposite maybe). I mean, they try to warn all the volunteers about the slow pace of Panama in comparison to the U.S., but of course, DC is more fastpaced and overcharged than the average U.S. town. I was feeling bad about the occasional afternoon that I sat in the house (studying), until I found out that the most common afternoon activity in my town is napping.
To help people understand my living situation, I’ve created a couple of lists (surely to be augmented with more time in country).

Most commonly asked questions, with answers (translated for your understanding):

-Do you like it here? A: Yes, its fresca, the climate is perfect.
-Do you like the food? A: Yes, others complain, but I love Panamanian food. Lentils and rice, Rice and chicken. I love it. And I “gracias a dios” haven’t gotten sick at all.
-Have you been here long? First time in Panama? How long are you here for? A: 4 months in Panama, 1 month here. My first time. I’ll be here for two years. I’m just starting. (Side note, when I say I’m here for two years, people do like to mention that I might get married and stay here forever. I tell them its not in my plans, but hey, in two years, quien sabe).
-So, you are teaching English here in the school? A: Right now I’m just in the school getting to know the kids and the community. And no, my program is not to teach English, but to work with the environment, so I’ll be teaching environmental education in the school. (Answer useless, they still think I’m here to teach English)
-You know Anita (other white person in town), right? You live with her? A: I have met her.
-You are studying here? A: No, I’m here with Cuerpo de Paz to work and live in the community. And I’ve already graduated from the university (they are shocked because they thought I was 17).
-You’ve been to Boquete? A: Not yet (also met with shock, because I’m a gringo and I haven’t been to Boquete aka Gringo-landia)

Signs that my site is ye-ye (or nice)

1. We have paved roads and sidewalks.
2. We have a bus, it runs every hour. People are shocked when I walk somewhere instead of taking the bus. But, it gives them something to talk about (ella le gusta caminar). We also have taxis.
3. Lots of people have cars, or motorcycles, a 4 wheeler, or a tractor. (Note, many people don’t though, and a horse or the bus is also common transport).
4. Though I am sending this from an internet café, I don’t have to hike into town to get into one. In fact, there is an American family in my community, and they have internet, and I can go there and use it.
5. It is a one hour direct bus ride to get into David, second biggest town in Panama.
6. There are lots of extranjeros around.
7. I can drink the water.
8. Novelas and Vive la Musica (Panamanian American Idol) are commonly discussed topics, because everyone has a TV.
9. I have been in peoples’ homes that had computers.
10. There’s plenty of food.
11. When I meet someone, instead of telling me where they live (because they probably aren’t home a lot) they give me their cell phone number.
12. The dogs appear to be well fed, and you can’t see their bones.
13. My house has a toilet. And a shower.

Signs I am still in Peace Corps

1. I have to dodge cows while walking on the sidewalk, or when going to someone’s home.
2. People stare at me. Or whistle. Or tell me they love me.
3. There are chickens running around in everyones’ yards. These chickens are also dinner.
4. Everyone speaks Spanish
5. I ran into a (dead) Boa.
6. I eat a lot of rice
7. People are shocked to know the countries I’ve visited and ask me if its scary to be in a plane.
8. The malaria meds are making my hair fall out.
9. It is completely normal and not alarming at all that men walk around with machetes

some moments

2008-07-23T12:03:00.000-07:00

Here is a picture of my host father killing a chicken. I helped pick off the feathers and watched and learned. Sorry, there is no picture to show that I was wearing a skirt at the time. I am one step closer to achieving my goal of killing a chicken.
Mostly, I just sit around. But, here are a few moments when I felt like I was doing something, or that I was in Peace Corps:
-The kids at school and I picked up trash in the backyard so we could plant our garden
-I convined my host father to use an organic method and not chemicals to kill the leaf-cutter ants (or arrieras)that are eating his yuca. So far, we´re trying neem and bread soaked in tabasco.
-I chewed some sugar cane. It was delicious
-I used a machete to cut down some platanos. They were delicious.

2008-07-14T15:02:00.001-07:00

there was three months of training: visiting new places, going to the beach, taking classes, hanging out with 45 other trainees. But, now training is over. I’m off in my site by myself beginning to integrate into a community. But now, the real job and adventure is beginning. So far, its been pretty overwhelming. There’s about 500 people to meet. Lots of Spanish to be spoken. And of course, I need to start helping them protect the natural environment.
But, it has its moments too. I usually go to the school in the morning, get to know the kids (and hopefully they’ll introduce me to their parents). I’m also pretty much a celebrity at the school. As soon as get nearby, all these children run out of their classrooms screaming “Abi!!” and I get a lot of hugs. And a lot of little notes welcoming me to the community and telling me how much they love me. I’m not sure what the reason is for loving me, other than being that skinny gringa that comes to school. But, the enthusiasm of the children is highly appreciated. My second day, we already started working on school garden. Sadly, the reconstruction of the septic tank means that we are currently on a hiatus. But, I have plans.
There are otherwise lots of other moments. Mostly I’m just hanging out right now. I mean, I’m working on the community analysis.  But, I meet new people everyday. People I’ve never met know my name. I usually have to clear up the fact that I’m not here to teach English. But, all the moms see me here by myself and want to take care of me, and the Principal of my school calls me “mi niña.” Poco a poco, I´m getting somewhere.

In other humorous stories. I was sitting in the kindergarten class in my school. The teacher asked the students the different between boys and girls. One boy stood up, and in true Kindergarten Cop style, announced that boys have a penis and girls have a vagina (teaching me some new words in Spanish). The teacher just nodded in approval, as well as all the other students. Nice to know they´re teaching the basics.

Service Begins

2008-06-28T16:58:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow I begin my Peace Corps Service for real. I'll arrive in my community to my new home, and start integrating into the community and figuring out my work for the next two years. We had a good swear in. It was in the Ambassador's Residence and happened to also coincide with the 45th Anniversary of Peace Corps in Panama, so a lot of returned volunteers also came. So, it was pretty nice and formal. The (world) Director of Peace Corps, The Ambassador, and two Panamanian agency heads were there presiding. The only problem was that while reading through all of our names, the guy forgot me. The mistake was remedied, but it was pretty funny, and I got a lot of apologies and pitty comments. Right now we're in celebration mode. We went out that night and currently all of us (new) volunteers are at the beach enjoying some last moments of luxury and togetherness before we take off to our respective sites. Tomorrow will have some sad goodbyes, but I am looking forward to beginning my service.

as a caterpillar becomes a butterfly....

2008-06-25T14:22:00.000-07:00

I'm back in Panama City, staying in the same place where we started when we arrived in country and attending a few last sessions of information as a trainee. That's right. Tomorrow is our Swear-In ceremony, which will be at the Ambassador's house. The Ambassador, as well as world director of Peace Corps will be at the ceremony. This is where we change from aspirantes (trainees) to voluntarios (volunteers). Then, a couple of days at the beach as a last hurrah, and then off into the real world of our sites. Hanging out with the other 45 volunteers will be coming to an end, and the trial by fire of speaking Spanish all the time and trying to integrate into my new community will begin.
We've been having our final interviews and final assessments. I got to Advanced High level of Spanish (very generous grading in my opinion). Really, I'm ready to go. I've enjoyed training a lot, I've gotten to see lots of the country, learn lots of new techniques, and meet so many cool people (American and Panamanian). But, I'm ready to go. It's time to start putting everything to work and get the feet on the ground. It's intimidating, but I want to get started.
It was hard leaving my host family in the training community. We got a long really well. They told me (didn't ask) that I was going to come visit them, and they're still convinced that I will marry their nephew and stay in the family (likelihood, very low). I know its going to be hard to say goodbye to the other volunteers, also. Tomorrow will be the last time we'll all be together. Enough of that, these are happy times...

Site Visit

2008-06-17T15:16:00.000-07:00

After a community entry conference to meet our community guides and prepare for site entry, I finally visited the town I’m going to be living in for the next two years. It’s a really nice town. High enough in the mountains to not be hot and humid, but not so high as to be rainy and cold. Almost the whole time I was there it was sunny, clear, and a good temperature. Apparently, it usually rains a lot, but I didn’t see that. Overall, it seemed a little bit more like the American Midwest than a tropical paradise. Its pretty flat, not too many palm trees, plus its Big Ag country. As opposed to small subsistence farming, there’s two big companies (see logos in picture) that employ a lot of people, bring in money, and use up the land. There’s about 400-500 people in the community, plus I should also be working in a nearby community of about 250. That was the most intimidating part for me: walking by all the houses and knowing I needed to go meet and talk (in Spanish) with all those people. I’m not totally sure about work, but there should be potential. There’s already an environmental group in the community, and a women’s group, so I’ll probably work with both of those groups. Also, I should teach environmental education in the schools. I met both the school director and the representante (local leader). Both were really enthusiastic about raising environmental consciousness. I even got invited as a guest of honor to the Father’s Day celebration at the school. The director talking about how I was “solita” and “jovencita” so they should welcome me with food and open arms.
One surprising thing was that, being Chiriqui and near Boquete (or Gringolandia), I ran into some older retired American gentlemen. Married to Panamanian women. Living much cheaper than they could in the U.S. Panama (and Boquete in particular) is supposedly one of the hotspots for retirement. So, I did have some conversations in English, though it was sort of like listening to your grandpa talk about the good old days.
In other news, I finally got my cell phone from the U.S. to work. Yep, rather than buy a new phone, I managed to get a SIM card and unlock the thing. Having a Cell phone: Peace Corps isn’t what it used to be. So, I’m going to need people’s phone numbers (sadly erased). Also, please send me some kind of message and I’ll give you my phone number. And you should get a plan that lets you make cheap international phone calls (hehe).

back from the road

2008-06-02T14:41:00.000-07:00

I have finally arrived back “home.” After two weeks on the road, my training community was a very welcome site. First, we had “culture week.” The 7 of us trainees that are going to the province of Chiriqui went to the mountains of Chiriqui for one week to learn about its culture.

It was a pretty relaxed week in the district of Boquete right below Volcan Baru. Despite the downpours and the cold, the area is absolutely gorgeous. Plus, it’s a part of Panama that still has lots of trees and dark volcanic soil.

I I didn’t get to visit my actual site, but I’m looking forward to it. Some highlights of the week include, milling sugar cane, drinking really good coffee, teaching in the schools, and walking back from a neighboring community in the pouring rain.

I didn’t get to visit my actual site, but I’m looking forward to it. Some highlights of the week include, milling sugar cane, drinking really good coffee, teaching in the schools, and walking back from a neighboring community in the pouring rain.

After a free night in Chitre, we arrived for “tech week,” to practice technical skills in the field. This week was in the beautiful mountains of Herrerra, which after the rain stopped, were very beautiful and enjoyable.

We taught in the schools, helped with a youth group meeting, visited some farms, and did some more hiking. I also learned how to pilar corn (picture shown) We also had a going away “despedida” on our last night, which included the selection of a king and queen.

For our free night returning from tech week, we went to a “surf camp” in Rio Mar. There ended up being about 20 volunteers there, including all of the CEC group (just proving how much we like each other). After two weeks in the mountains, it was nice to be on the beach. I finally arrived back at my house in time for a big party. I’m exhausted and starting to realize that there isn’t much time left in training

News, for now

2008-05-17T11:59:00.000-07:00

OK, here are a few more pictures to entertain all of you. Sorry, I´m still not taking a lot. These are my boss riding a horse in the cow farm we went to visit (as well as some of us standing around), my house, and another shot of my birthday.

As far as those of you wanting more information

on my site, I haven´t been there yet, so I can´t tell you much. But, it is on a road, there´s electricity, and stuff like that. Apparently, not authentic Peace Corps. I leave tomorrow for two weeks , technical and cultural week, out in Panama.

Site Announcement!!

2008-05-14T16:44:00.000-07:00

Well, I finally know where I´m going. Province of Chiriqui. Pretty close to Boquete (huge tourist place, I´m sure you can get info on it). Mountains, coffee country. I´m gonna be doing some education, working with environmental groups. I´m pretty excited. I don´t visit the actual place for a few more weeks, but I think it will be a good next two years.

Good News....and waiting

2008-05-10T11:47:00.000-07:00

This blog is going to be all praise and good words. Things are going really well on the Peace Corps Front. Last weekend, I went to visit another volunteer at their site. Peace Corps does this as “demystifing” to show you how volunteers actually live, and it allows you to find your way across the country using public transportation by yourself. Some other volunteers came back with stories of being dropped off on the side of a highway at 3 am, awkward bailes, two hour hikes uphill in the blazing sun, and sleeping in barns while eggs hatched. My weekend was not like that at all. It was a great experience and full of idyllic peace corps moments. I visited a volunteer named Cassandra, who seriously lives about 15 feet from the beach in the province of Veraguas. We took long walks on the beach, went horseback riding, helped build a hatchery for sea turtle eggs, went around “pasear”ing (or wandering through neighborhoods chatting with people), picking fruit from trees in an abandoned lot, and sat in on a community meeting to help raise money in an environmentally friendly way. Whether I was strolling the beach, riding a horse on the top of hills with great views, talking with the people, or looking up at the sky at night (seeing the most stars I’ve ever seen in my life), I thought everything was idyllic. All the other volunteers pretty much hate me now whenever I talk about the weekend. To top it all off, when I got back to my host family, they had bought a puppy.

In other good news, Tuesday was my birthday. I wasn’t sure how it would go, being far from home and friends and all that, but I got lots of pleasant surprises. My host family had been looking forward to the day since I’d told them when it was. They had a big dinner and a cake ready for me. Plus, once the word got out about the cake, lots of the nieces that live nearby also showed up at the house. Later that night, my host mother called me to the front door, where about seven or so of my fellow volunteers, and my instructor were waiting with guitars and a harmonica to serenade me with happy birthday. The surprises didn’t end there. Thursday, we ended Spanish class early and walked down to the cultural center, where there turned out to be another party for me, with a cake and a piñata and other volunteers. Sorry there are no photos of these, but they were surprises. It was all very nice and I feel very loved on my birthday week.

Now, I wait for May 14th, when I’ll find out my assignment.

Here are some photos of my cake, including my host family

This is my host sister studying with the puppy nearby

Training begins

2008-04-27T12:37:00.000-07:00

I have now been living in my training community for one week. I’m living with a host family. They have two daughters, 15 and 11, with whom I share a room. They have already proved themselves very hospitable and helpful. For example, right after arriving, I discovered that some shampoo in my bag leaked, and they helped me clean up. This accident will also explain why there aren’t any photos on this blog. Yep, my camera is currently out of service. I’ll try to remedy the situation soon. The next night I got a bloody nose. I felt their concern again. Plus, I get three large meals every day and the opportunity to practice my Spanish. I am fast becoming fluent in Spanglish.
The days of training are very full. I have Spanish class and technical training. About 8 hours everyday. 8 am to noon, and 1 pm to 5. Not very much time to relax or process. My host family all get up around 4 am to commute into Panama City, so lights out is usually around 8:30 or 9. I need that much time to sleep though since I often get woken up by dogs, busses, or roosters (don’t be deceived, they do not only make noise at dawn to wake you up) But, I’ve already learned how to use a machete, make compost, host a environment movie night, navigate the bus system, and plant trees. Plus, we get to meet lots of current volunteers and hear about their projects. We won’t find out our own sites and projects for 3 more weeks, though I think my director already knows. I asked him a question the other day and he referred to “your site” since he has apparently already picked it out. I’ll try to get the details out of him. The highlight of this training week was going to Chorrera on Friday. Usually, a long day of listening to presentations on safety, tropical diseases, and regulations would not be interesting. BUT, we sit in air conditioning, get to eat lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, and have coffee around all day. Such luxury. Plus, afterward, we had the opportunity to go have pizza and beer and make telephone calls. No wonder they call Peace Corps Panama Posh Corps

2008-04-19T14:51:00.000-07:00

So, today, the group of us in Community Environment Conservation (there's about 18 of us) went out to visit a volunteer in the field and see what life is really like. He lives in a community near the coast and does mangrove reforestation. So, we walked around a mangrove forest for a while. We didn't have to plant any trees, but we got to see the forest and also the places where "carboneros" make charcoal from the trees. We also got to enjoy a nice lunch, visit a (tree) nursery the community has, and see some typical Panamanian dancing by children. One kid even got me up there to dance with him, but he wouldn't look me in the eyes, so I'm pretty sure I was atrociously horrible. Afterwards, on our way back, we bought machetes. So, I now have a machete, anti-malarials, and a mosquito net. Welcome to Peace Corps!
Tomorrow, we leave our compound and actually begin training. I'll be living with a host family in a small, rural community about an hour from Panama City. These posts will start becoming much less frequent since the town has no internet (though it does have electricity).

In Panama!

2008-04-16T18:34:00.000-07:00

Well, I am finally in Panama! We arrived in Panama City this afternoon. We were then whisked away to the "Ciudad del Saber" (or City of Knowledge), which is basically the old military base Ft. Clayton next to the canal. This is for our "aspirantes" (trainees) retreat for the next few days. So, there's still AC and even WiFi, which I'm using right now. The hardships of Peace Corps Service won't come until I little later. But, we got to meet the Country Director and finally start learning all the Panama specific information (as opposed to Peace Corps in general). I'm very excited. Apparently, this is one of the best country programs.

I haven't used my camera yet. I promise I will and then I'll post some photos

contact info

2008-04-09T11:58:00.000-07:00

Here's my address

Abby Furnish
Cuerpo de Paz/Panama
Edificio 104, 1er Piso
Avenida Vicente Bonilla
Ciudad del Saber, Clayton
Panama, Republica de Panama

Once I get an address at my site in July, I'll let you know.

Otherwise, e-mail still works. Either my hotmail or my gmail.

Once I get a phone/phone number, I'll let you know that too

the countdown begins

2008-04-08T06:59:00.000-07:00

Alright guys, We are now inside a week until I leave for Panama. Here's a hint of my schedule

April 14th, 8:25 am: Board a plane for Miami
April 14-16th: Staging in Miami with the rest of Group 61
April 16th: board plane for Panama City
April 16th-20th: Orientation in Panama City
April 20th: Depart to my training site and host family.

I am currently packing up my belongings in my apartment. Then I need to pack up the rest of my stuff into 80 lbs worth of luggage. and say goodbye to everyone. Oh, the challenges
Here's a few photos from my going away party Saturday night